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I had a Muslim roommate in Spain who supported the "they're promoting ham and wine on purpose" theory. Spain itself is a trip. Every decent sized town seems to have "the old synagogue" and "the old mosque", which are now typically some sort of gaudy church with terrible statues. Ask the tour guide about La Convivencia and you're met with puzzlement or a swift change of subject.

But man -- this whole write up is making me crave a bocadillo de calamari. Fried squid, generous spread of mayo, soft white bun. Delish.

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Holy crap. This hit so hard. Thank you, I can't in the form of an internet comment boil down why to explain that I'm not just blowing hot air, but please know I needed this exact essay.

Simultaneously, I send all my best wishes for your ability to find peace and rest.

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I had a similar experience visiting Nachmanides' synagogue with my mother in Girona in 2017. Thank you for writing this; I feel like you really put your finger on the exact feeling I've had but could not name.

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